Pippy Resting on a Branch...I think both pictures capture his "essence".
Pippy deciding that Junior (aka Dumpy, aka Tardy) makes a good resting spot.
Junior right before lights off.....crawling up to his favorite spot to sleep.Thursday, June 12, 2008
New pictures of Junior and Pippy
It has been a while since I posted any pictures, or really have done anything with this blog. So I figured I would post at least a few of the better pictures which I have taken over the last few months. It is confirmed that they are both males....as they are now croaking up a storm.
Pippy Resting on a Branch...I think both pictures capture his "essence".
Pippy deciding that Junior (aka Dumpy, aka Tardy) makes a good resting spot.
Junior right before lights off.....crawling up to his favorite spot to sleep.
Pippy Resting on a Branch...I think both pictures capture his "essence".Pippy deciding that Junior (aka Dumpy, aka Tardy) makes a good resting spot.Junior right before lights off.....crawling up to his favorite spot to sleep.
Saturday, April 26, 2008
Morning in the vivarium
These pictures where taken right after the lights came on this morning. If you have been paying attention to Junior's (aka Dumpy) growth, you will notice that he has put on some weight. Pippy is also starting to get some weight on her.
Junior (aka Dumpy)
Pippy
Junior (aka Dumpy)
PippyTuesday, April 22, 2008
My new frog Pippy and some updated pictures
It has been a while since I posted. Here is my new CB Litoria caerulea, "Pippy". She is dark in the photograph because it was when she was first introduced to the tank. Her normal color appears to be somewhere between a standard and a blue phase. 
Here is Pippy sleeping almost on top of Dumpy (aka Junior)
You can really see Dumpy's nice blue color in this picture.
You can really see Dumpy's nice blue color in this picture.Wednesday, March 12, 2008
You lookin' at me?
I caught Dumpy on her log stump and thought I would share....she seemed disturbed that I invaded her private time.
Saturday, March 1, 2008
White's Tree Frog Care Sheet
Description: The White's Tree Frog is a medium-large "stout" bodied frog, with adult females reaching up to 5 inches (13 cm) and adult males being slightly smaller at about 3.5 to 4 inches (9-10 cm). They range in color from brownish green, to a bright teal blue, with the under side ranging from a pinkish hue to white. They are a docile frog that spends most of it's time at rest, but are very tolerant towards humans.
As with any frog, handling your frog should be kept to a minimum. Frogs are meant to be viewed, not handled. If you must handle your frog, Wash your hands with soap and water, then rinse your hands several times in the hottest water you can stand and leave your hands wet. After handling your frog wash your hands thoroughly.
Feeding: A primarily diet of consisting gut load crickets should be fed. Crickets should be dusted with a calcium supplement every 3 or 4 feedings. Other items that can be fed include: sow bugs, wingless fruit flies, locust, grasshoppers, moths, cockroaches, silkworms, butterworms and earthworms. Some owners will also feed an adult frog an occasional pinkie mouse as a treat every 3 to 4 weeks. As with many frogs species they can be cannibalistic, so do not house juveniles that could easily fit into the mouth of an adult.
The amount to feed your frog will differ by age and activity. White's tree frogs tend to become obese, so do not over feed. A basic guideline is to feed juveniles daily, and adults every 2 or 3 days . Feed the frog as much food as it is interested in for 30 minutes or so. If the frog loses interest in the food, remove the food from the tank. On the average this will be anywhere from 3 to 8 crickets per feeding.
Housing: Being an Arboreal Species (tree dwelling), an Arboreal Tank (one that is taller than wide) should be used. Exo Terra, ZooMed and others companies manufacture Arboreal Tanks which are suitable for White's Tree Frogs. The minimum size for a juvenile would be a 12" x 12" x 18" (30 x 30 x 45 cm), which would need to be replaced when the frog reaches adult size. The size of tank for an adult should be a minimum of 18" x 18" x 24" (45 x 45 x 60 cm). Glass Gages makes a 90 Gallon 24" x 24" x 36" (60 x 60 x 90 cm) which ideal for multiple adults.
Lighting and Heating: Being an Arboreal and nocturnal species the frog will spend most of it's time up high in the tank, being most active at night. Lighting needs to come from a source outside of the tank that will bring the inside tank temperature to 78-82 F (22-26 C) during the day, with night time temperatures dropping down to 72-78 F (22-25 C). You must place a thermometer in the tank to measure the heat, DO NOT GUESS on the temperature.
I prefer to use 6700K Compact Fluorescent Bulbs, such as the Repti Glo 2.0 Full Spectrum bulbs. These bulbs will provide sufficient heat for your frog and have the added benefit of providing the proper spectrum of light for live plants to flourish. The main thing with lighting is to provide the correct amount and do not bake your frog by making the tank too hot. A lighting period of 12 hours on and 12 hours off be be followed. If you are cannot keep that schedule, get a timer.
Night viewing can be accomplished by using low wattage LED aquarium bulbs, or low wattage incandescent night glow bulbs. As a general rule, do not allow the bulbs to be on all night, only turn on the night lighting when you wish to view the activity of your frog. The lighting is available in dark red and dark blue. There is still much debate on which color of lighting is best for night viewing. Most articles site that frogs cannot see the red spectrum of lights, other say that their particular frogs react best to the blue lighting.
Water: Clean water should always be available for your frog. A shallow bowl that is larger than the frog and filled to a depth that is not over it's head is recommended.
The water needs to be changed daily or more often if it appears dirty. If using tap water, allow for the water to sit for a minimum of 48 hours to remove chlorine and chloramines before using it.
If you prefer, you can also purchase bottled filtered water, making sure that you avoid R/O or distilled water, as your frog needs the trace minerals.
A hygrometer must be placed in the tank and humidity levels need to be kept between 60- 70%, do not guess on the humidity. To help in with added humidity, the tank should be misted twice per day.
Substrate: I only recommend the use of Hydo-balls as a base with Coconut Husk Fiber as top layer. Avoid using bark, pebbles or anything that the frog may ingest and cause impaction.
Decoration: While many will say fake plants can be used, I am a strong believer in planting live plants in the tank.
Live plants offer many areas for your frog to hide, climb and jump. The plants also have the extra benefit of providing oxygen, increase humidity levels, and help in the break down of organic waste. Pieces of reptile safe wood, vines and cork should be placed in the tank for your frog to climb on and hide as well. Remember, this is an arboreal species and prefers to spend it's time up high in the tank.
Cleaning and Maintenance: I use clean paper towel sprayed with distilled water to wipe down the glass daily and to remove any waste that I see on plants and wood pieces.
As stated above, water needs to be replaced daily or more often if it appears dirty. If you have set-up the tank with live plants, the replacement of the substrate is minimal. The frogs waste becomes food for the plants, and the plants break down other organic waste.
With regular daily maintenance, you should only need to remove a small amount of the top layer fiber every 6-12 months. Some even find this unnecessary if you have created a true mini ecosystem within the tank.
Closing remarks: If you follow these basic guidelines, you can expect a happy healthy frog that will give you years of enjoyment. Captive Bred White's Tree frogs can have a lifespan of 20 years, so like any pet, this is a life time commitment.
Do not impulse buy a frog or any pet for that matter. Spend the time researching your pet so you can provide the best possible care for these lovely creatures.
Feeding: A primarily diet of consisting gut load crickets should be fed. Crickets should be dusted with a calcium supplement every 3 or 4 feedings. Other items that can be fed include: sow bugs, wingless fruit flies, locust, grasshoppers, moths, cockroaches, silkworms, butterworms and earthworms. Some owners will also feed an adult frog an occasional pinkie mouse as a treat every 3 to 4 weeks. As with many frogs species they can be cannibalistic, so do not house juveniles that could easily fit into the mouth of an adult.
The amount to feed your frog will differ by age and activity. White's tree frogs tend to become obese, so do not over feed. A basic guideline is to feed juveniles daily, and adults every 2 or 3 days . Feed the frog as much food as it is interested in for 30 minutes or so. If the frog loses interest in the food, remove the food from the tank. On the average this will be anywhere from 3 to 8 crickets per feeding.
Housing: Being an Arboreal Species (tree dwelling), an Arboreal Tank (one that is taller than wide) should be used. Exo Terra, ZooMed and others companies manufacture Arboreal Tanks which are suitable for White's Tree Frogs. The minimum size for a juvenile would be a 12" x 12" x 18" (30 x 30 x 45 cm), which would need to be replaced when the frog reaches adult size. The size of tank for an adult should be a minimum of 18" x 18" x 24" (45 x 45 x 60 cm). Glass Gages makes a 90 Gallon 24" x 24" x 36" (60 x 60 x 90 cm) which ideal for multiple adults.
Lighting and Heating: Being an Arboreal and nocturnal species the frog will spend most of it's time up high in the tank, being most active at night. Lighting needs to come from a source outside of the tank that will bring the inside tank temperature to 78-82 F (22-26 C) during the day, with night time temperatures dropping down to 72-78 F (22-25 C). You must place a thermometer in the tank to measure the heat, DO NOT GUESS on the temperature.I prefer to use 6700K Compact Fluorescent Bulbs, such as the Repti Glo 2.0 Full Spectrum bulbs. These bulbs will provide sufficient heat for your frog and have the added benefit of providing the proper spectrum of light for live plants to flourish. The main thing with lighting is to provide the correct amount and do not bake your frog by making the tank too hot. A lighting period of 12 hours on and 12 hours off be be followed. If you are cannot keep that schedule, get a timer.
Night viewing can be accomplished by using low wattage LED aquarium bulbs, or low wattage incandescent night glow bulbs. As a general rule, do not allow the bulbs to be on all night, only turn on the night lighting when you wish to view the activity of your frog. The lighting is available in dark red and dark blue. There is still much debate on which color of lighting is best for night viewing. Most articles site that frogs cannot see the red spectrum of lights, other say that their particular frogs react best to the blue lighting.
The water needs to be changed daily or more often if it appears dirty. If using tap water, allow for the water to sit for a minimum of 48 hours to remove chlorine and chloramines before using it.
If you prefer, you can also purchase bottled filtered water, making sure that you avoid R/O or distilled water, as your frog needs the trace minerals.
A hygrometer must be placed in the tank and humidity levels need to be kept between 60- 70%, do not guess on the humidity. To help in with added humidity, the tank should be misted twice per day.
Substrate: I only recommend the use of Hydo-balls as a base with Coconut Husk Fiber as top layer. Avoid using bark, pebbles or anything that the frog may ingest and cause impaction.
Decoration: While many will say fake plants can be used, I am a strong believer in planting live plants in the tank.
Live plants offer many areas for your frog to hide, climb and jump. The plants also have the extra benefit of providing oxygen, increase humidity levels, and help in the break down of organic waste. Pieces of reptile safe wood, vines and cork should be placed in the tank for your frog to climb on and hide as well. Remember, this is an arboreal species and prefers to spend it's time up high in the tank.
Cleaning and Maintenance: I use clean paper towel sprayed with distilled water to wipe down the glass daily and to remove any waste that I see on plants and wood pieces.As stated above, water needs to be replaced daily or more often if it appears dirty. If you have set-up the tank with live plants, the replacement of the substrate is minimal. The frogs waste becomes food for the plants, and the plants break down other organic waste.
With regular daily maintenance, you should only need to remove a small amount of the top layer fiber every 6-12 months. Some even find this unnecessary if you have created a true mini ecosystem within the tank.
Closing remarks: If you follow these basic guidelines, you can expect a happy healthy frog that will give you years of enjoyment. Captive Bred White's Tree frogs can have a lifespan of 20 years, so like any pet, this is a life time commitment.
Do not impulse buy a frog or any pet for that matter. Spend the time researching your pet so you can provide the best possible care for these lovely creatures.
Thursday, February 28, 2008
My White's Tree Frog
This is Dumpy, my Litoria caerulea or commonly referred to as a White's Tree Frog.She is only about about 2 months old as a frog, so that means about 6 months old from egg, to tadpole to froglet to juvenile frog.
I have not measured her, but my guess is that she is approximately 2 inches (5cm) in size.
So far she has a very strong appetite, is very active and comes out early enough so I take pictures of her almost daily.
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